On Kolonnenstraße in Schöneberg sits a Turkish counter that treats the ground-meat döner as its own discipline.

The spit is built in-house every day — coarse ground beef cut with veal, giving the shaved meat more bite and a deeper savor than the usual glossy take. The Tırnak flatbread comes from the same kitchen, dimpled across the crust. The real anchor is the İskender — the Bursa specialty, layered over torn bread under tomato sauce. A quiet dome of yogurt and a ladle of pale, warm butter run across the plate.