Sophia Rudolph cooks Casual Fine Dining at Lovis on the upper end of Kantstraße, inside Hotel Wilmina whose rooms used to be a women's prison.
Her path runs through the Paul Bocuse Institute Lyon back to Berlin: traditional dishes get re-sorted, not deconstructed. Schwäbisch-Hällisch pork belly arrives slowly glazed with apple kimchi, answering whether a six-course menu can be hearty without hesitation. The non-alcoholic pairing is no fallback but a composition of pressed cucumber, verjus and coconut water. The room rests on old walls and designer pendants — in summer an aperitif in the courtyard under parasols.
