GEMELLO in Lettestraße at Helmholtzplatz does vegan pizza without a half-measure — no animal product in the house, and the menu never frames it as something missing.

The dough rests on a biga starter, which gives it a nutty edge instead of the sharper tang you get from sourdough. The topping line goes its own way: purple sweet potato or black olive as a base instead of just tomato, plus house-made mozzarella from tapioca and an anchovy stand-in built from eggplant and seaweed. Before that, the Caesar with vegan parmesan or the marinated olives hold the line. Industrial-chic room, natural wines in the glass, packed in the evening. Card only.