Hokey Pokey reads as an ice-cream patisserie rather than a gelato counter — French and Italian patisserie craft meets fine-dining flavour thinking.

The Stargarder Straße room runs that line under chandeliers, behind a classic counter with a rotating board of unusual scoops. Butter caramel with crisp popcorn is the eponymous flavour that gave the shop its name. Around it sit poppyseed-marzipan, passionfruit and a Madagascar chocolate cut with goat's milk and sea salt, savoury and tangy. Pistachios from Sicily, vanilla from Tahiti — raw ingredients carry the room before the playful side kicks in. Scoops get dipped in marshmallows or sprinkles.