On Torstraße, NY-style pizza moves by the slice across the counter.

Four red slices, one white, each one thin, crisp, and foldable — the way Lower-East-Side counters do it. The pepperoni is the headliner: house-spiced salami on a fruity tomato sauce, grated parmigiano on top, and on request a drizzle of hot honey that tips the slice sweet-and-spicy. Wash it down with a half-lemonade-half-iced-tea, a small pizza-parlor gesture. The counter is the stage, slices are pulled from the oven in front of you, cut, briefly reheated, handed over. Walk in, line up, grab one or two, eat them on the move.