Yafo borrows its name from the Tel Aviv neighbourhood and its idea along with it: bar, wine, service, sharing plates and ambience in one room.
Owner Shani has moved the concept into Ritterstraße, into the former Shishi rooms, and runs it a touch more grown-up here. Israeli cooking, in CG's words, rough and almost insolent, always a statement. You share across the long table, order across the mezze spectrum, and at the centre sits the falafel: crisp outside, fluffy inside, with a tart mango sauce. Shani calls it the best in town, CG writes it up as the star of the evening. To finish, chocolate mousse with olive oil and pine-nut caramel.
