Research restaurant by Justus Will at the Lokdepot — the menu follows what the Brandenburg forests and fields are offering.

What doesn't come from Brandenburg doesn't reach the plate — no pepper, no lemon, no olive oil. Acidity and seasoning come from house-made garums and ferments. Six courses with a wine or non-alcoholic pairing — the non-alc isn't a consolation prize, it's its own composition. Twenty seats, terracotta-red walls, a velvet-green strip of moss down the long table. Tea and a warm towel arrive at the welcome.