Sourdough pizza was still a concept in Berlin when Gazzo turned it into the standard — the dough rests for days, the flour is organic.

The toppings arrive from small farms in the region. Behind the oven: a Norwegian pizzaiolo with a Michelin-kitchen past, which is why the crust comes out airy rather than charred, lighter than the Neapolitan neighbours. A seasonal asparagus pie runs in spring, the glass holds orange wine or spritz from the tap. Closer is the soft serve made from Brandenburg buffalo milk — olive oil and Maldon salt instead of syrup, one of the better ideas this pizzeria generation produced.