Wine bar on Mittelstraße in Mitte, sommelier-run, with a list aimed at drinkers who know what they want.

In the basement of an old building a 26-metre oak counter runs the length of the room, behind it a list of roughly 500 bottles weighted toward Österreich and France. Fifteen to twenty open wines rotate alongside. Small growers, biodynamic or conventional, are allowed to share the page. Bar food is compact and savoury, built as a companion rather than a main act. Seafood, a meat board and a handful of warm plates. Music comes from a record player only, and there are no cocktails.