Rebecca and Jared Bassoff run Estelle on Kopenhagener Straße — a couple with stops at Traube Tonbach in Baiersbronn, Four Seasons London and five years at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong under Pierre Gagnaire, having met at the Joel Robuchon Atelier in New York.

Estelle is their first own place. At the centre, a 700-kilogram Gozney stone oven, where Jared Bassoff pulls bread and pizzas from regional ingredients. The menu runs as a sharing format, natural wine alongside, eating done family-style. The pick: the sourdough focaccia with butter — there’s no way around it.